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December 3, 2015December 4, 2015

INTERVIEW: Jasper Garvida – Éthologie

Words by Sasha Holt / Pics courtesy of Éthologie

N.B. Jasper Garvida will be exhibiting his latest Éthologie collections at The Clothes Show Live ’15, alongside a live interview with Hilary Alexander OBE in the Olympus Style Studio on Sat 6^th Dec.

Hello Fashionistas, it’s Sasha, your intrepid sartorial guide through the fashion labyrinth.

As we find ourselves just hours away from the start of The Clothes Show Live 2015, my spidey senses are telling me that this is going be one to remember for all the right reasons. Many of fashion’s hottest, most innovative designers are putting the finishing touches to their collections – all destined to wow you, The Clothes Show Live faithful.

Personally, I’m getting ready to be blown away by queen of sustainability and style Katie Jones – with her jaw dropping knitwear creations. Then there are the futuristic neoprene pieces of Manière De Voir, which will leave you inspired to explore a galaxy far far away, alongside the sensual and sculptural elegance of cocktail attire by Emilio de la Morena.

But high on my must-see-list is one of The Clothes Show Live ‘15 headliners – Éthologie, by Jasper Garvida. The Manila born, London schooled designer will be exhibiting his latest Éthologie collections across the four day event, with Garvida himself being interviewed in the Olympus Style Studio by Hilary Alexander OBE on Saturday 6^th December.

Birmingham Review caught up with Jasper Garvida ahead of the NEC showcase, about the inspiration behind Éthologie and the designer’s hopes for The Clothes Show Live 2015.

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Birmingham Review (BR): With such an international background what inspired you to come to London to study fashion?

Jasper Garvida (JG): I remember opening a copy of Vogue and reading about this University where the great Alexander McQueen, John Galliano & Stella McCartney went to study fashion and so I decided to apply myself, and three weeks later I was in central St. Martins studying, and that forever changed my life. I believe, London is a big melting pot in the fashion industry and the creative industry. I’ve worked in fashion industry since graduating and have worked for couture houses like Savile Row and now I have Éthologie and I am forever in debt with this city for building my career and especially Ms Hilary Alexander for discovering me.

BR: You’ve worked with some of the most innovative designers such as McQueen and Westwood, have they influenced your own designs?

JG: I would say they have inspired me immensely in becoming a designer and finding my own label. Design-wise I have my own style but what I admire most about these people is their work ethics. I have understood that having a fashion label and creating designs is not an easy thing to do. Not only do you have to be a creative person but also have a business oriented mind at the same time. That is what really drove me, how they’ve established themselves in the design field and fashion industry.

BR: You’re gaining a name as the ‘go to’ designer for the fashion conscious celebrity. Who is on your wish list that you’d like to dress?

JG: I really like and appreciate strong women, who have a definite style; I somehow relate to them. And to be honest, I secretly, I do want to dress the Queen of England because I believe that that would be very challenging for me. I always like a challenge, anything that’s beyond my repertoire is exciting for me to take upon.

BR: You say that individuality is a key part of Éthologie, how would you describe the individuals that wear your designs?

JG: Every collection we make and every design we create is special; meaning that a woman can take a piece and adapt it to her own style. This is the beauty of Éthologie, it’s all about experimentation! Éthologie is targeted to young women who have their own style and individuality, it is a laboratory for them to have fun and experiment with my clothes, it is a staple for every wardrobe. There are some key pieces that obviously make more of a statement which for me is an investment piece for young professionals.

BR: Hilary Alexander OBE has championed you since she saw your graduate show. Do you feel the rest of the fashion world has embraced your unique style?

JG: Absolutely! I’ve learned a lot from working in the fashion industry not only for couture houses but also for the high street which means that i have good knowledge of what women in general like and what their tastes are developed of, so, I could see my clothes on pretty much everyone. Éthologie is stocked all over the world and it is spreading out there and I hope a lot of women discover it sooner or later because in my opinion, it’s quite elaborate than that.

BR: At Birmingham Review we’re excited to see what you have in store for us at The Clothes Show Live this year. Can you give us an exclusive as to what to look out for in your catwalk show?

JG: I’ve lived in the UK for 15 years now and I’ve never been to Birmingham, I’ve done The Clothes Show before, but NEVER been to Birmingham, which is a bit disappointing, I know. SO, I’m really excited and looking forward to it. During this show, we’re going to present our last SS16 collection.

The Spring Summer 2016 collection captures the beauty of Morocco. The story of the collection follows an archetypal Éthologie woman; a highly cultured urban traveller with a strong sense of individuality. The collection’s focus is on her journey from her native France back to her original home of Morocco to discover the world of her ancestors. The collection is immersed in the rich Moroccan culture, which is reflected in the ornate patterning, delicate embroidery and textured embellishments of the fabric of the clothes.

The pieces are made with meticulous precision and care. Hand twisted chiffon and hand embroidered French lace feature alongside Garvida’s trademark embellishment. The decadent patterns are inspired by Moroccan architecture, encapsulating the silhouettes of archways and the profiles of windows frames, to produce a collection that embodies the symbiotic quality of infusing the established heritage of the East.

BR: Events like the Clothes Show Live can often be a great platform for new designers to raise their profile, but since you already have such acclaim in fashion circles, what do you hope to gain from being at this event?

JG: I’m hoping to show my journey as a fashion designer, to show not only fashionistas but to people who study fashion, who show interest in fashion and even people who simply dream that dreams do come true and to never give up! I’m also really looking forward to my interview with Hilary Alexander; words cannot explain how excited I am!

BR: Many of your designs are very form fitting, and you may assume they would only suit a model figure. Do you cater for what fashion would class as ‘plus sized’ which make up a large portion of the population?

JG: Well, our clothes go from size 6 to size 16 and like I said I’ve worked in high street fashion before so I have dressed women up to size 32. If one tries Éthologie clothes, they would see that they compliment the woman because I always start with the woman and nothing else.

BR: Having been born in the Philippines, do you see yourself as a style ambassador for Filipinos internationally. And do you have any plans to support aspiring fashion designers in the Philippines?

JG: Yes, of course! Coming from the Philippines, I’ve always been proud of who I am and my heritage. I suppose I inspire people from the Philippines because of my story from my humble beginnings in Manila and not because of the success that I’ve achieved. Who knew that one day I will be on the same pages of magazines such as Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney of whom I only read when I was younger!

BR: I’m sure you have lots of exciting opportunities ahead in the coming year, so what’s next for Jasper Garvida and Éthologie?

JG: We are working closely with boutiques in the Middle East and are creating designs and patterns that cater to them and their clothing choices. We’re looking forward to broaden our target market more with the coming years. And we’re very much geared to work on our Autumn Winter 2016 Collection at the moment.

Jasper Garvida will be exhibiting his latest Éthologie collections at The Clothes Show Live ’15, alongside a live interview with Hilary Alexander OBE in the Olympus Style Studio on Sat 6^th Dec.

For more on Jasper Garvida, visit http://www.jaspergarvida.com/

For more on Éthologie, visit http://www.ethologie.co.uk/

The Clothes Show Live ’15 comes to the NEC Birmingham from 4^th – 8^th December. For full programme details visit http://www.clothesshow.com/

Tickets for The Clothes Show Live ’15 are on sale now, available through Ticket Factory. For online tickets sales & info, visit https://www.theticketfactory.com/cslb/online/

For more from the Ticket Factory, visit https://www.theticketfactory.com/

November 27, 2015November 27, 2015

BPREVIEW: Karima Francis @ Ort Café 28.11.15

Words by Ed King

On Saturday 28^th November, Karima Francis brings The Black Tour to the Ort Café, playing an intimate live show in the Balsall Heath venue – with support from Abi Budgen.

Doors open at 7:30pm with tickets priced at £5.50 (advance) – as presented by Birmingham Promoters. For direct gig info & online ticket sales, click here.

Out across the UK from November to December, playing criss-crossed dates from Stornoway to Totnes, Karima Francis comes to the Ort Café on the final week of her Autumn tour. On the road to promote her new album, Black, Francis will playing twenty solo shows – leaving Birmingham for dates in Bristol, Oxford, London and Winchester, before ending The Black Tour in Devon on Dec 5th.

Black, Karima Francis’ latest LP (via Kitchenware Records) is being funded by a successful Pledge campaign – with a release date, as far as our eyes can see, still yet to be set. Black is the third album from Karima Francis on the Newcastle independent, with her debut, The Author, released 2009.

Karima Francis’s follow up album, The Remedy (released in 2012) perhaps gained her the most ground – with album tracks ‘Glory Days’ and ‘Wherever I Go’ receiving more prominent playlist attention and the occasion TV spot. But despite the increased mainstream, media and industry veneration, it’s has arguably been on stage where Francis has left her deepest mark.

A solid songwriter, powerful performer, and well seasoned on the solo gig circuit, Karima Francis has built up an army of support with her emotive, raw analysis and sonorous delivery. But despite being one of those jaw-to-the-floor performers, a metaphor you’ll understand better once you’ve sat staring it in the face, Francis has only flirted with commercial success since 2009.

Pegged for greater things by many musical pundits at some point in their reviews or rhetoric, Karima Francis was heralded in her heyday as The Observer’s ‘No1 to watch’ across 2009. But since the broadsheet endorsed benchmark the Blackpool born singer/songwriter has still been slogging it out on the live circuit; whilst some around her, even in initially in her shadow, have climbed further and faster up the greasy pole. ‘Aint altruism a bitch.

One selfishly positive outcome is you can still get to see Karima Francis in places as ‘intimate’ as Ort Café – a venue, whilst being a Birmingham Review favourite, which is about one tenth of the size this artist could command. And if you need another nudge (without a more pertinent promo)…

‘Wherever I Go’ – Karima Francis

Karima Francis comes to the Ort Café on Saturday 28^th November – with support from Abi Budgen. For more gig info and online tickets sales, visit http://birminghampromoters.com/Events/karima-francis/

For more on Karima Francis, visit https://www.facebook.com/karimafrancis/

For more on Abi Budgen, visit http://www.abibudgen.co.uk/

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For more from the Ort Café, visit http://ortcafe.co.uk/

For more for Birmingham Promoters, visit http://birminghampromoters.com/

November 25, 2015

THE GALLERY: Boat to Row (album launch) @ Hare & Hounds 20.11.15

Words by Ed King / Pics by Joëlle O’Toole

On Friday 20th Nov, Boat to Row came to the Hare & Hounds (Kings Heath) to launch their debut album, If I Found You Here. Somewhat established round these here parts, Boat to Row stopped off at t’Hare for a special home town show, as promoted by This Is Tmrw, before the obligitaory London showcase and a gig up in Nottingham

Released via local label/promoters, Nocturne Records – the city purveyors of storytelling and Folk (from Midnight Bonfies to Katherine Priddy), the If I Found You Here launch night was supported by Dancing Years and Declan McKenna – alongside DJs from Goodnight Lenin.

Joëlle O’Toole was at the Hare & Hounds for a Birmingham Review, grabbing some of life’s ever fleeting moments to stick in THE GALLERY.

Declan McKenna – supporting Boat to Row @ Hare & Hounds 20.11.15

Blah blah, young, blah blah, talented. Ignore the obvious rhetoric; Declan McKenna is well worth a stop, look & listen regardless – penning some feisty Folk (© Birmingham Review) with some bitter sweet lyrics and the occasional Ska staccato to move it all along. I suppose you could say he’s a bit like Jake Bugg without the skiffle addiction. And, you know, good. Plus those kindly folk on Worthy Farm have given him some walking around money, so there’s probably more to come from Mr McKenna before the next festival season.

For more on Declan McKenna, visit http://declanmckenna.bandcamp.com/

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Dancing Years – supporting Boat to Row @ Hare & Hounds 20.11.15

With a name that reminds me of a Reeves & Mortimer sketch, but a sound that’s much more laudable, Dancing Years are getting ready for their debut release EP next Feb. Great vocals, strong melodies; do not be put off by the tweed-jumper/Geography-teacher-on-weekends moniker, this quintet from Leeds are a pretty spectacular thing. They’re getting some solid support from Auntie at the moment too; Dancing Years could have a promising new year ahead of them.

For more on Dancing Years, visit http://www.dancingyears.com/

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Boat to Row @ Hare & Hounds 20.11.15

The band of the hour, and a pretty well loved/established/supported local ensemble – the release of their debut LP, If I Found You Here, is another step along Boat to Row’s already confident path. A group of musician’s musicians, quite clearly friends, and writers of some Folk sturdy enough to support even the most cynical of hearts (mine) Boat to Row are one of the city’s musical feathers. As in cap..? Anyway… just check out the album and you’ll see what I mean.

For more on Boat to Row, visit http://boattorow.com/

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For more from the Hare & Hounds (Kings Heath), including full event listings & online ticket sales, visit http://hareandhoundskingsheath.co.uk/

For more from This Is Tmrw, visit http://thisistmrw.co.uk/

November 24, 2015November 25, 2015

OPINION: The Clothes Show Live ’15 @ NEC 04-8.12.15

Words by Sasha Holt / Pics courtesy of NEC Group

Well hello fashionistas, its Sasha – your style guide through the fashion wilderness. And here we go, taking the next step on that yellow brick road towards the metaphorical Oz that is The Clothes Show Live ’15.

One of the things I’m most excited to experience at this year’s event is the Vintage area. With exhibitors such as Minimum Mouse and All about Aud, creating exciting new pieces by recycling and upcycling (as well as helping lovingly pre owned Vintage pieces find new homes) it’s an ethos very close to my heart.

In today’s fast, disposable fashion world there are so many cheap clothing options that few people appear to buy with an eye for longevity or quality. Rather it’s more attractive to buy a piece of designer homage in a ‘fashion’ megastore and when it loses shape, or goes out of style, to simply bin it or sell it for its weight.

Now I’m not purporting to be a moral compass on this area; I too have ventured into the sartorial pit even Dante would recognise. I have pieces in my wardrobe that cost less than a sandwich, but it does twinge my conscience to think of the amount of money that is thrown away in the name of fashion.

In fact, if we look at the numbers it might make even the most hardened shopper feel a little queasy. The BBC reported earlier this year that in the U.K over £44bn is spent annually on clothes, 30% in the average wardrobe has been unworn for a year, and probably the most staggering of all a massive £140m of clothes go into landfill every year.

I would hope that The Clothes Show Live would follow in the footsteps of events such as Charity Fashion Live, to help re-educate its customers. Charity Fashion Live, this September, was an exciting opportunity for London Fashion Week to work with Oxfam, and introduce the idea of wearing second hand clothing and textiles to a new audience. They also created a viable platform to discuss sustainability, the environment and throwaway fashion.

I’m not saying The Clothes Show Live needs to become a glorified charity shop or Vintage fair, and I understand the importance of events such as these in supporting the fashion industry.

But I applaud the inclusion of the Vintage area at The Clothes Show Live in possibly re-educating its visitors to the benefits of clothes that are pre owned and second hand. It’s definitely a step in the right direction towards a fashion catwalk with a more of a conscience.

The Clothes Show Live ’15 comes to the NEC Birmingham from 4^th – 8^th December. For full programme details visit http://www.clothesshow.com/

Tickets for The Clothes Show Live ’15 are on sale now, available through Ticket Factory. For online tickets sales & info, visit https://www.theticketfactory.com/cslb/online/

For more from the Ticket Factory, visit https://www.theticketfactory.com/

November 21, 2015November 21, 2015

INTERVIEW: The Enemy @ The Empire 21.11.15

Words by Esh Capêlo / Film by Edward Taylor (Digital Flow)

The Enemy are out across the UK, touring their latest studio album It’s Automatic – playing at The Empire in Coventry on Saturday 21^st November, with support from Castles, April and Asylums. Doors at 7pm, for direct tour gig info & tickets click here.

Esh Capelo went along to The Empire for Birmingham Review (sneaking in between some last minute venue renovations and the band’s homecoming gig soundcheck) to chat to local lads, Andy Hopkins and Liam Watts, about The Enemy’s new album, current tour and the exciting news that the trio will be supporting The Libertines next year.

Talking about their latest studio release, It’s Automatic, and their follow up to their third UK top ten album, Streets in the Sky, Liam says; “there’s definitely more going on, we’ve stepped up what we do. Before we used to just go out and smash it up live…”

“…now it’s more a show than a gig,” adds Andy, “but it’s still got loads of energy. If we’re not knackered at the end of the gig then there’s something wrong with us.”

The opportunity to tour with The Libertines in 2016 was welcome and one that the band couldn’t pass up. “It’s amazing,” says Andy “we’re buzzing for that. We’ve known for ages that it might be happening but we’re held it back. When we finally got it confirmed we were like ‘yes!!’”

“We’re doing four dates,” adds Liam, “Birmingham, London, Bournemouth and Cardiff. We hadn’t met Pete as much but Carl’s been on the same management as us. Even the other night Andy was DJing in London and Gary (Powell – The Libertines’ drummer) was there…”

“Yeah, I leant him my headphones,” adds Andy. “I didn’t know if he knew we were going to be supporting them but I thought, I’ll get them back on the tour. I’ll make sure I’ll get ‘em back.”

The Enemy are playing thier homecoming gig at The Empire, the city’s newest music venue on Far Gosford Street – a venue co-owned by Tom Clarke, The Enemy’s front man, and one opened to help Coventry gain the title of City of Culture 2021.

Liam says, “It’s going to be mental. Home gigs are always pretty special… and you get a bit more nervous; there’s a lot going on, your family are down, that kind of thing. It always builds to this point, wherever it is in the tour, the home show, it always builds to that point.”

Andy adds, “…but (as Tom Clarke is co-owner) if anything goes wrong, I’m going to moan.”

But who’d hear him; tonight’s sold out gig is sure be as raucous as any of The Enemy’s previous homecomings. Tom Clarke will also be DJ’ing and meeting fans at the official after show party.

Watch Birmingham Review’s full interview with The Enemy @ The Empire 21.11.15

The Enemy play their homecoming gig at The Empire in Coventry on Saturday 21^st November, with support from Castles, April and Asylums. Doors at 7pm, for direct tour gig info & tickets visit http://www.seetickets.com/artist/the-enemy/547719

For more on The Enemy, visit https://www.facebook.com/theenemy

For more from The Empire, visit http://www.coventryempire.co.uk/